Life, Work, Education

What is the purpose of life? I mean as a human being, what, if at all there is one, is the ultimate goal? Are we bees where we spend our whole lives working for the benefit of one? (One being an owner, President, Board of Directors, etc.). Are we here to simply spread the word of religion? Are we supposed to help ourselves more than others? Or is it just the opposite? Obviously the answer to this question depends on the individual, but it is an important question to ask. What is the purpose of your life? What do you want to live for?

I bring this question up after discussing life in full detail with Reed Oliver. Reed is a local business man and a friend of Dr. Larry Cunningham from the Traditional Seafaring Society on Guam. I met Reed a few days ago and he wanted to take me to Fort Richie – his property in Nett. He named his property Fort Richie because of his son Richard who was in the U.S. Army and died in 1999. More on that later.

Anyways, after he showed me around the property we began to sit down and talk and we talked about life. So now I sit here and I am reflecting on the conversation we had. What do I want to do with my life? What is its purpose?

Well let me start by saying I am not a subscriber to the aforementioned “Bee Theory”. I’m not ready to waste away the best years of my life working 40+ hours a week in an office. Sure it would be nice to accumulate some monetary wealth, but even more important to me is the accumulation of mental wealth; learning about myself, living and learning in and about other cultures and lifestyles. I try to meet life with an open mind and a curiosity about things unknown to me. What a better way to know more about yourself than to know about others? It gives you a basis for comparison and allows you to expand your understanding of the world you are living in and the people you share it with. It is unfair to yourself and others to live a life full of egocentricity.

Now I understand that there will be a point in my life – no doubt to happen sooner than later – where I will need a job to support a family. Family is the most important thing in my life, and another goal of my life is to be a great father and husband and this requires work. But I think it is also important for me to do the things I have always wanted to do now so I can devote myself to a family later. What I mean is this; when I am older and have a wife and have children I don’t want to think to myself, “I really wish I could have experienced this” or “I wish I would have went there” because it will be much harder for me to fulfill those desires. At this point in my life I have a lot more to gain that I do to lose and it won’t always be that case. I know I will have to work, but I have the rest of my life to do that.

Right now, I don’t want to devote my life to working for the next promotion or living for the next deadline. Let me put it to you this way, and I am going to borrow a line from the keynote speaker at Josh’s graduation: “Get a life – a real life. You can win the rat-race, but you will still be a rat.”

Now understand that this is only my outlook on my life. Some people don’t have the same desires as me and I respect and understand that. Some don't even ever get a chance to do this, so I feel fortunate to get this opportunity. I am just reflecting on my life with the hopes that some may learn or just consider a different point of view from this reflection.

As for Reed’s son. Actually, this will be more about Micronesians in the US Army. Almost weekly since being on Guam and Pohnpei I have heard about Chuukese, Palauans, or Pohnpeians who died in Iraq and I don’t think it is fair. First of all, I appreciate the fact that these people are serving the United States of America, but they are giving their lives for what? They are fighting and dieing for a nation in which they can’t even vote or obtain citizenship. People like Reed’s son Richard give more to this country than millions of other Americans (including myself) and deserve the right to be a US citizen (if the are so compelled).

This isn’t something that is unique to the war in Iraq; thousands of Philippines were “guaranteed” citizenship during the Philippine-American war if they fought for this country, but the US reneged on this after the war was over.

I understand that these people join the US Army voluntarily, but that doesn’t mean we shouldn’t grant them certain rights that citizens (again, including myself) are guaranteed simply because we are born here. I haven’t ever even thought about joining the Armed Forces yet I am able to move about this country freely, but a man, such as Richie, can go to war for this country, yet not even vote for his Commander in Chief. It just doesn’t seem right.

Friday morning I met with Willy Kostka to discuss an internship opportunity with the Micronesia Conservation Trust and the Micronesian Challenge. The internship involves training workshops and the development of educational programs that teach youth about conservation. However, we both decided that it would be best for him to consider the other candidates. Willy is looking for people who are committed to working with conservation in Micronesia long after the internship and I don’t know if that is the path I want to travel. Don’t get me wrong – I feel strongly about conservation; the Earth isn’t a disposable entity and we really need to start taking care of it. The problem is that I don’t have any conservation background/education/training. I had interest in this internship because it was an opportunity for me to work here and educate myself in the conservation aspect of Micronesia.

Speaking of education – I want to continue mine. I don’t necessarily regret studying Sports Management because it was something I was passionate about at the time, but I found I had a stronger desire to learn about Pacific Island(er)s after enrolling in my APIA Studies classes. Unfortunately the program is young and only offers a minor degree (thus my need to continue my education). Most people who study PI studies go on to get their doctorate and that is something I can see myself doing (imagine that: Justin Thorington, Ph.D. Or maybe I should go with J.Glen Thorington, Ph. D. haha only kidding).

There is definitely the opportunity for me to undertake endeavors that will allow me to improve the quality of life in the Pacific. I don’t like the way that sounds. How can I put this? I just think there are systematic areas (the government in general, education, public health, etc.) that can be improved. I am not an imperialist (in fact, probably the opposite) and I don’t want to sound like one. If I find that people are fine with the way things are then there is no need for help, but I don’t get that feeling. Man all I can think of as I write this is everything I learned about Empire and colonization and I hope it doesn’t sound like I have that same sort of superior-inferior mentality because, believe me, that is far from the truth. PLEASE let me know if it sounds like that though.

Later that day I walked around Kolonia again as a tourist and saw some historic things. For example, I saw the Spanish Catholic Bell Tower and climbed to the top to get some cool views of Kolonia and Sokehs Rock and I saw an old WWI tank in the midst of some buildings in Kolonia. I also walked up to the Kapingimarangi Village where they are master carvers and weavers. They make everything out of coconut tree wood/palm leaves and ivory nut.

Well kalahngan for reading. I think I maybe circumnavigating the island tomorrow with Reed's son Andy. I need to start hanging out with people my own age! I look forward to your comments or replies. Kasalehl koros. Justin

Spanish Wall, Kitti, Reflection

On Friday I went with Mooka for a walk around Kolonia – pretty much the hub of FSM although Palikir is the capital. They have a really cool baseball/softball field with the Spanish Wall as their outfield fence. Spain controlled Pohnpei (then called Ascension) and after the Sokehs Rebellion (natives from Sokehs refused to accept knew labor requirements and a battle ensued) they built a square wall as fortification and protection. Most of the wall was torn down by the Germans when they acquired the island via the Spanish-American War. Even more of the wall was demolished by the Japanese and then by WWII bombings, but the little section that remains is used as an outfield fence.

Later that day I met a University of Michigan graduate who is a Supreme Court judge for the state of Chuuk (Truk). We went out for a few drinks that night and I actually met a ton of family. Almost everyone out here knows my family – especially a few of my uncles.

On Sunday we headed out to Kitti Enpein Pah. I like being in Kitti because it is the true Pohnpei experience. Kolonia is the only real “town” on the island and isn’t really indicative of life for the rest of Pohnpei. Most families are settled on property their family has owned for generations and this is the case for the place we stayed in Kitti. My goal for this trip was to learn about Pohnpei and its people (my people) and to do this I wanted to be totally immersed in their culture and lifestyle. When we stay out in Kitti is when I feel that I am fulfilling this goal. I start to feel more and more like a local and less like a mehn wai; everyone sleeps in one room, shower under with a bucket and water, use the bathroom in an outhouse (although a lot have regular toilets – just in the outhouse). It is great.

Life out there is much slower and much simpler. One of the guys I met described it to me perfectly – he said something along the lines of: “In America it is much harder. You have to pay for everything. If you want chicken, you pay for chicken; if you want fish you pay for fish; if you want to hunt, you have to pay for a license. Here you hunt and fish for free. You sell and eat what you kill and eat what you grow and that is all you need”. I think he has a good point. Their land is their life. They may not have extra money to buy gidgets and gadgets, but they don’t need it.

Monday some of the kids and I went to the local river to go swimming and then hiked up to a waterfall for more swimming. I really regret not brining my camera because it was beautiful. It is fun to swim in Lake Michigan or the ocean, but not many can hike to a remote waterfall and swim. We played around in the water for hours and then headed home for some lunch.

That night we had a big feast. The meal: reef fish, tuna sashimi, rice, pineapple, hot dogs (probably made for me), chicken, and tapioca. I tried a little bit of everything, but wasn’t a big fan of the tapioca or raw tuna, but at least I tried.

Today I went and met with Rufino Mauricio who is the VP of the Historic Preservation Office for FSM. He is an extremely nice guy and offered to help me with any kind of research I am doing now or in the future. In other words, he will probably be my go to guy for grad-school papers. He had nothing but kind things to say about the University of Michigan, especially their anthropology department. He was a great guy and I’m glad that I met him.

I also met a man named Reed Oliver, a local businessman. Reed owns a restaurant and a roadside market (there are roadside markets EVERYWHERE). Reed took in and fed some navigators from the TSS when they were sailing to Puluwat (I THINK) and Larry told me to meet up with him. Reed is also a great guy. He offered to take me around and I think we are going to get together on Friday.

It has been really great to be out here. I have had time to learn and relax at the same time. It is so quite and at nights I can just sit and reflect. I enjoy sitting with everyone who is drinking sakau and just take it all in: conversations, mannerisms, personalities. I don’t really say much mostly because I don’t know the language, but I have been content just living and learning in Pohnpei. Kalahngan for reading. Justin

Nan Madol

Kasalehlie koros! I had a great day today. I went on a water-guided tour to Nan Madol, a waterfall, and snorkeling. I was a little worried at first because it was rainy – in fact it has rained everyday I have been here – but once we reached Nan Madol it cleared up and the weather was beautiful.



Nan Madol – meaning “in between places” (in reference to the canals) was a civilization made up of 92 total islands. The earliest civilization is traced back to about the first or second century A.D. By the 8th or 9th century construction of the islet began and the distinctive architecture seen today wasn’t completed until the 12th or 13th century. Each island served its own purpose. The elite center was a place of residence for the nobility and of mortuary activities presided over by priests. Madol Powe, the mortuary sector contains 58 islets in the northeastern area of Nan Madol. Most of the islets once were occupied by the dwellings of priests. Some islets serve special purposes, such as food preparations on Usennamw, canoe making on Dapahu, and coconut oil preparation on Peinering. High walls surrounding tombs are located on the mortuary islets of Peinkitel, Nandauwas, Karian, and Lemenkou. I’d recommend google-ing it for more information.

This place could be considered one of the wonders of the world because of the way it is built. The stones had to be transported from Sokehs rock or other places on the island by rafts. Some stones weigh more than 5 tons and local lore says that the stones were lifted and placed by magic. It is kind of like the Stone Henge and the huge stone on Easter Island in that many today can't understand how it was built.

Nan Madol was so majestic. As soon as you see Nan Madol you know it is someplace special; you know there is history. The stories and traditional beliefs give this place an aura that I have never felt before. We explored Nandauwas which was an ancient burial ground. Four walls are built up about 22 feet high to make a square and there is no roof. Inside there were a few burial chambers and an underground chamber. Some believe this chamber to be a jail while others think it is meditation chamber. From that island you can see many of the other islands and visions of people canoeing through the channels and people bustling around the island occupied my thoughts. It is really hard for me to put into words what I was feeling. It is truly a special place.

After Nan Madol we went to a beautiful waterfall on Pohnpei. On the boat ride over we saw the belly of a huge manta ray feeding – a sign of things to come. The hike was only about 10 minutes, but the scenery was beautiful. Pohnpei has been so grey since I have been here that I haven’t really notice how lush, green, and beautiful the foliage is. There were also many beautiful flowers that accompanied us on our hike. We went swimming in the waterhole right there at the waterfall and it was a refreshing treat.

We then boated over to a man-made island for lunch. The island was just remnants of the bottom of the channel floor that had been trenched for ships. From the island you could see and hear the waves crashing on the reef. Pohnpei is surrounded by a reef about a mile off the island. The waves sounded like an airplane. It was an extremely peaceful lunch.

Finally we went snorkeling. Unlike on O’ahu and Guam, we were in deep water and not in a reef. We were right in the middle of a school of small fish which meant there would be some bigger fish feeding. The first thing I saw about 10 feet below me was a white-tip shark. I couldn’t believe it – the first time I have ever seen a shark. It was small though; only about 3 feet long. However, the manta rays we were swimming with were huge. We swam with about 4 of them and they were only about 5 feet away. I’m not going to lie, I was a little scared. I am still not used to the aquatic life – nothing to fear in Lake Michigan, but the ocean is another story. Anyways, the manta rays feed by making loops through the schools of fish, so they kept flashing the white of their bellies. It was a great experience, but I still have to adjust to the wildlife.

Nan Madol was probably the top priority on me “To See” list and I am grateful that I got a chance to see it! Next on the list is Sokehs Rock. Hopefully I’ll see that this weekend. If the weather permits, I am going to explore Kolonia on my own. I want to see the Spanish Wall and some other landmarks around here. I am having a great time. Miss you all. Menlau for reading. Kasalehlia. Justin

First days on Pohnpei

KASALEHLIA from Pohnpei!! I finally made it! The flight went extremely fast. It seemed like we had only reached our flying altitude when we were beginning our descent to Chuuk. The flight from Chuuk to Pohnpei was even faster. We landed around 12:40 a.m. and I finally cleared FSM Immigration around 2:00 a.m. Our shuttle to the Village Hotel had already left, however, so we were stranded at the airport for a while. Thankfully one of the airport workers was able to give us a ride out there. The problem was that he drove a truck, so Mooka and I rode in the bed of the truck. (Mooka appropriately looked at me and said, “Welcome to Pohnpei” ha ha).

The ride in the bed was no problem for me. I actually really enjoyed it. I was able to let my senses take in Pohnpei for the first time. I saw thousands of stars almost spray-painted across the sky. I got a good smell of the aroma of thick, green foliage. I heard the bugs and running waters of a river we crossed. And I felt the warmth of a small truck engine heat the bed of the truck and subsequently my butt.

We are staying at the Village Hotel for a few nights. This place is amazing. It is set off back in the forest and each room is a big thatched-roof bungalow made from breadfruit wood and the roof is made from the leaves of a coconut tree. The view is beautiful as well – mine a lookout over the water.

On Tuesday I went with my Grandma and Mooka to my Aunt Judy’s house. There I met Judy, her daughter Stephanie, and her son Arwo. They live in Kolonia (see map). We ate there and I explored Kolonia a little. We will be staying there after our stay here at VH.

After we visited them for a while we went to Kitti Enpein Pah (or just Kitti). That is where all of Mooka’s family is from. At first I just kind of sat around because the kids disappeared and the elders were visiting, but Mooka’s cousin Stonney (13 – aisuk seelu) took me to the basketball court where a bunch of us played for a while. There were also many people playing volleyball. One thing I’ve noticed since I’ve been out here is that Pohnpeians love to play volleyball and they are really good. Anyways, we had to play with the fear of a volleyball smacking us in the face from the volleyball court right behind us.

Later that night we all sat around and ate and then all of Mooka’s cousins showed me a little clapping game they all love to play. Then they all sat around and taught me Pohnpeian language. It was a lot of fun and I am starting to learn a lot – although I can’t really put a sentence together other than “I’m going to…” (E pan kola…).

Pohnpei is beautiful, but I definitely feel like an outsider (men wai). I thought maybe I’d be able to blend in with the tan I got in Hawai’i and Guam, but no way. I am definitely one of the lightest colored here other than the other Caucasians on the island. Because I can greet and say some other things most of the kids thought I was in the Peace Corps or Navy. On the drive out to Kitti I was sitting in the bed of the truck and every person we passed just stared – Mooka had fun pointing that out too. But I don’t think they stare in a bad way, but rather just because I am a stranger and I don’t look like I’m from the island. I am probably close to the darkest I’ve ever been, but I definitely don’t feel it.

Anyways, I am having a great time and look forward to spending some quality time on the island. Kalahngan for reading. Kasalehlie. Justin.

KASALEHLIA EN POHNPEI

Kasalehlia all - I don't have much time because I am access from the hotel's computer, but I just want to let you know we made it safely and I am having a great time. Pohnpei is beautiful and I've already been able to see a lot of the island. I should have a full update tomorrow or the day after.

The Village Hotel is amazing and not a hotel at all. You rent single rooms which are thatched huts. They are beautiful with amazing views of the jungle and the water. We went up to Kitti Enpein Pah (or just Kitti - pronounced 'kichi') and visited Mooka's family.

Sorry that is all, but kalahngan for reading.
Kasalehl. Justin

Kasalehl Guam

Kasalehlia all. Well last night I drank sakau again. As I mentioned in a previous post, you don’t get “the feeling” the first time you drink. Well this time there was no doubt that I got the feeling. The feeling is a mix between being light-headed and drunk, but sans any discomfort or out-of-control feelings. It is relaxing in a way. My limbs felt heavy, but I felt happy (but not giddy happy). The feeling is really hard to explain and is probably best explained through experience. The problem is that sakau is unique to the Pacific. In fact, for a time sakau was only made on Pohnpei, but is now made here on Guam and in some other places like Samoa and Fiji (according to some fellow sakau-drinking-Pohnpeians last night).

Tonight we drank sakau straight from the rock which makes it much more potent. Instead of mixing batches we drank the first batch. While the sakau may be thicker and slimier it is much stronger. Unfortunately, my stomach wasn’t ready for the strong stuff. I was feeling good until we got in the car. It was a bumpy ride and I got sick.

Some other things to know about sakau (again according to fellow drinkers):
• You must close your eyes when drinking
• When you are done drinking sakau for the night you then drink at least a beer – this is known as kapobo (spelling?)
• At first the sakau numbs your tongue and upper throat


It is hard for me to sleep right now – probably the reason I am writing this tonight instead of tomorrow. I have insomnia right now because of a couple of people. I am praying for them - and I'm not really religious. I hope everything is okay and everything turns out to be okay. Just know I am thinking about you. Out of respect for both of them I won’t say any names – you know who you are.

I want to give a special thanks to a few people who have sort of taken me under their wings during my stay here. The first is Dr. Larry Cunningham. He is the president of the Traditional Seafaring Society. I thank you for allowing me to spend time with the TSS, taking me to the BBQ, and inviting me to your presentation. I appreciate that you were genuinely interested in making sure I had a great stay hear on Guam. Kalahngan and if there is anything I can do for the TSS on Pohnpei please let me know.

The next person I owe a thank you to is Andrew – my professor’s nephew. Thanks for teaching me about Chamorro culture, showing me around town and taking me to the property. Your standup was hilarious and I had a great time. Kalahngan.

Guam Update

Wednesday I went with Andrew to his father’s property on the north side of the island. The property was amazing and a real privilege to visit. The snorkeling was a million times better than the snorkeling at Hanauma Bay – maybe because it is remote property instead of a Nature Reserve visited by millions yearly. The water was a lot deeper making it easier to swim around and the fish were bigger and I saw a giant clam for the first time.

After we snorkeled we just chilled and enjoyed the scenery. The property is thick with bamboo, palms and other foliage and it really has an ancient feeling to it. There are still latte stones around the properties which ancient Chamorro houses were built on some 500 years ago (sorry I didn’t get any pictures).

Wednesday was also John’s birthday, so we went to the Chamorro Village and grabbed some dinner. After that we went to Louis’s house (another Pohnpeian) to drink sakau. Sakau is a drink unique to Pohnpei. It is a mixture of grounded pepper root, water, and hibiscus. It looks like muddy water (which is essentially what it is) and tastes the same. The taste really reminded me of spinach, but, as Louis said, “you don’t drink for the taste, you drink for the feeling”. I didn’t get “the feeling” because first-timers rarely get it, but I was assured it will happen the next time I drink sakau. I am told it is similar to a marijuana high, but I will save my description until the next time I drink sakau.

On Thursday Mooka, grandma, and I got some pizza for dinner – my treat. The price of pizza is one vast difference between the continental United States. For one medium-three-topping-pizza plus two salad bars the cost was $40…yikes.

On Friday I just relaxed all day by the pool. It seems that there isn’t as much for me to do here. I think a lot of that has to do with the fact that Josh is gone. I’m not as proactive as far as going out and doing things because he is not around. It also doesn’t help that I don’t know about hikes or special beaches to visit. But on the flipside I have done more cultural-relevant activities (like visit the canoe-house, learn about Micronesia, learn Pohnpeian, etc). I am still having a great time; it is just a different change of pace.

I am excited to leave for Pohnpei on Sunday night! Kalangan for reading. Kasalehlia Justin.

Canoe Cultures of the Pacific

Yesterday Manny took me out on the canoe MAISA. Originally I thought we were going on the canoe Quest, but Manny didn’t have enough time. It was still loads of fun to go on the MAISA though. It was really windy and because of how small the canoe is, we couldn’t leave the channel. I hope to go on the Quest once before I leave. I told you I would tell you about traditional seafaring the Pacific, so here I go. I may give you some information that isn’t 100% correct, but I’ll do my best! Most of the information I will provide is from a class I took with Vince Diaz: Canoe Cultures of the Pacific. If anyone is interested and has some open credits, it is listed under AMCULT 496. I strongly recommend it although I am not sure when it will be offered again.

The practice of inter-island navigation in the Pacific can be traced to 3000 B.C. to the Austronesians – a group of people linked by a common language. The Austronesians left South Eastern Asia and expanded their population throughout the Pacific (to Easter Island in the East and Madagascar in the West). They depended on navigation to survive; the small islands of the Pacific left little room for population growth and resources were limited, thus expansion was necessary. Austronesians have been traced through language and through pottery with a common pattern known as Lapita.

Seafaring is a visceral, highly embodied pre-occupation and this is illustrated through Merak Heki. Merak Heki is the system of teaching the art, science, and culture of becoming a Palu – a navigator. Merak Heki means “unfolding the mat and opening the heart.” The “mat” is knowledge about stars, clouds, winds, ocean, waves and swells, islands, reefs, creatures, concepts and practices for calculating distance traveled, position at sea, directions, speed, proximity of islands, building canoes and canoe houses, healing, martial arts, and magic – each subject being a different “mat”.

Austronesians and future Pacific Islanders navigated without the luxury of maps, GPS, sextons or even compasses, so they had to find other ways to guide their boats towards a desired destination. This feat was accomplished through the use of rising (tan) and setting (tolon) stars. To put it simply you steer toward whichever star rises or sets in the direction of the island you wish to visit. But paafu really is not that simple, for the star or star course an island lies under is different for every island in the Pacific. For example, the star course to Saipan from Puluwat will be different than the star course to Saipan from Pohnpei.


To compensate for this children are taught star paths and star compasses at a very young age. In a star course, a single star is named to identify an entire star path. It is not necessary to know the name of each trailing star, but rather only a few significant ones. In fact, on most islands, all of the stars in a star path have the same name. Children of a specific island learn the star path for every island. One way this is done is through the Carolinian Sidereal Compass – a system of orientation by the horizon points where chosen stars rise and set. It is called a “Sidereal Compass” because the position of the stars is similar to the points of a compass. Usually thirty-two stars (points) are named – each point representing a specific island. The bearing of the stars are symmetrical at rise and set (except for the pole star which remains stationary). Of course, a certain star needed to navigate may not have risen yet or may have already set; this is when you use the other stars in the star path.


The first step in training the young navigators is to lay down stones to represent the stars of the compass. The children then memorize each stone and what island they represent. It is not a chart, but rather a way to memorize each star. By memorizing the thirty-two stars/islands, it is possible to determine the direction of an infinite number of islands that lie past, before or in between islands. Once the children have demonstrated that they have memorized each star compass, they are a step closer to become Palu.


The stars are much more than a navigational tool; they are a way to identify the culture of Pacific Islanders. The fact that Islanders are able to navigate from island to island without the luxury of the aforementioned modern tools shows the intuition, adaptability, and intelligence of Pacific Islanders. The original navigators had no maps or compasses and relied on intuition to expand their people throughout the Pacific. They had the intelligence to memorize these paths and pass them down through oral traditions. They were able to adapt each star path specifically to each island they inhabited. They respected the stars; the stars were their culture. These practices are still exhibited today and stars are still a large part of Pacific Islander culture.

Navigating by the stars is a way to navigate during the night, but seafarers also have techniques during the day. Birds are often used as navigational guides and are described as “the navigator’s best friend”. This is because birds predict landfall – they are usually found within 50 miles of shore (but only land-based birds). It is also important to understand that these birds only predict that land is near not the direction of land during the day. However, birds, during the early morning and toward evening, can be used to direct navigators toward land because they are flying to their fishing grounds (morning) and back to land (evening).


The use of birds, as well as the use of stars, also shows how nature is a large part of Pacific Islander culture. Land, water, stars, birds, fish, vegetation and everything nature offers is utilized, adored, and essential to the survival and growth of Pacific Islander, and no part is less significant than another. Pacific Islanders identify with every part of nature whether it is for survival, growth, or navigation.

Merak Heki is not only a science or a way to teach navigation. Merak Heki is also a way to define a culture. It “unfolds the mat” and teaches navigators the techniques of reading stars, the sea, birds, and spirits. It also “unfolds the heart” and instills culture and heritage to Pacific Island navigators. This culture is in the process of renewal. Elder Pacific Islanders are unfolding the mats to teach younger generations the practice of seafaring with hopes of keeping the heart beating (i.e. Manny Sikau, Larry Cunningham, and the TSS).

If you are interested in more information, check out the book We the Navigators by David Lewis. Feel free to ask me any questions. If the prior explanation is too academic (I copy and pasted from an old paper), just send me an email and I can explain more. I hope this was informative and interesting.

Last night Mooka, my grandma and I went to Tumon to a barbeque with some other Pohnpeians. It felt good to finally get back in the water. The sunset was absolutely gorgeous and I got some great shots. We leave for Pohnpei Monday morning. Kalangan for reading. Kasalehl Justin.

Guam

Kasalehlia (Pohnpeian for ‘greetings’) everyone! I am doing great out here in Guam. Guam is hotter than O’ahu – or so it seems because of how muggy it is. I went for a run this morning and it felt like I was running in a sauna. Guam isn’t a very big island (only about 36 miles around) and it seems smaller because of the amount of military-restricted land. It is a U.S. territory, so it still has all of the things you would find stateside – my first night we went out to eat at Outback Steakhouse. Guam is full of hills but they are very different than the mountains of O’ahu.

I am staying at my grandma’s house in Santa Rita on the western side of the island. She lives with her husband John, daughter Mooka, and Mooka’s brother Kelen – all Pohnpeian. I have had to do a lot of adjustment since arriving here. They all speak Pohnpeian, but I have actually enjoyed that because I really want to learn. I have learned how to say a few things, but have no idea how to spell – I’ll do my best:
• Kasalehlia (Greetings – formal)
• Kasalehl (Hi & goodbye)
• Ia iromw (How are you?)
• Malek (Chicken)
• Ay pwun (I’m tired)
• Pako (shark)

They have taught me more, but that is all I have retained. Hopefully I will be semi-fluent by the end of my travels.

The toughest adjustment for me is adapting to the living arrangements. They live in an apartment that would be modest at best compared to U.S. standards, but I don’t really think of it in that way. The culture is totally different out here. There isn’t the need for huge houses, fancy cars, fancy toys, etc. You will find all of those things out here, but it isn’t the dominant lifestyle. I wouldn’t even call it poverty – some just live with less because that is all they need. Nevertheless, it isn’t what I am used to, so I am a little out of my comfort zone. But I think it is good for me (or people in general) to be out of my comfort zone once in a while. It gives you character and teaches you to be independent and how to appreciate things.

Everyone here has been extremely friendly. As I mentioned in a previously post, Dr. Larry Cunningham took me the Micronesian Area Research Center (MARC) at the University of Guam for a cookout. I met so many people that seemed genuinely excited for me and my travels. Andrew (Vince Diaz’s – my former professor - nephew) took me out for the night. First we went with his girlfriend Asia to the House of Brutus for his comedy show, which was extremely hilarious. Andrew was the funniest one there, but they were all good. I met a ton of Asia’s friends and a ton of Andrew’s friends who all grew up on Guam. It was a great night.

The next day I went to the Traditional Seafaring Society’s canoe house where I met even more people. One spectacular person in particular is this man named Manny Sikau. Manny has the title of Master Navigator and Master Carver (equivalent of a PhD is Western culture). One of the major goals of the TSS is to revive and continue an ancient seafaring tradition in the Pacific. They sail and build canoes traditionally and teach others these practices in order to revive what is probably the most important practice in the history of the Pacific. These traditions are something that has fascinated me and I am extremely excited to learn more about them in the near future. The TSS builds Chamorro (native people of Guam) canoes. Canoe styles vary from island to island throughout the Pacific. Polynesian canoes are usually huge and double-hulled for long-distance travel. Micronesian canoes are smaller, faster, but not meant for long-distance travel. But even throughout Polynesia and Micronesia canoes vary. Anyways, I got a chance to use an adze (used to carve the canoe) and just hang out and help around the utt. Manny is taking me out on the Quest on Monday. I can’t wait.

The TSS has plans to build a 35-40 foot Chamorro-style canoe known as a “Flying Proa”. This canoe will be traditionally built at their canoe house and will be filmed as part of a documentary. It will take them 6-12 months to build this canoe if they work fulltime on it. They are actually using breadfruit trees from Pohnpei to carve the canoe. I will devote my next post to some of the aspects of traditional seafaring in the Pacific.

Other than going to the canoe house, I haven’t been up to much. I have really enjoyed spending time with my grandma Kiniya and really getting to know her. I wasn’t able to spend much time with her growing up because she lived so far away. It has been great to just hear her stories, eat her food, and connect with her. Her stories are really getting me excited to go to Pohnpei and Mohkil. Mohkil is an island about 90 miles off the main island of Pohnpei. It is where my grandma was born and raised (so to be more technical, I am Mohkilese). We will spend time on both islands. Right now it looks like we are leaving a week from today (Sunday in Guam, Saturday in the states). I will probably update again tomorrow after sailing on the Quest. Thanks for reading. Kasalehl. Justin

Pics: 1: me heling Manny with a 10 ft. hull; 2. me and Master Navigator Manny Sikau; 3. me with a traditional paddle, Quest in the background

Hafa Adai!

Hello all. Well I haven't had much Internet access and I have to make this quick sorry. I should have a full update tomorrow or the next day. I landed safely and the flight was long...about 7 hours. I was put on the direct flight here because the other plane was grounded in Japan.

Guam is so beautiful, but very muggy. Apparently it is the dry time of the year and it is still really humid. Guam is more sprawled than O'ahu but probably just as Westernized. Yesterday I met with Dr. Larry Cunnigham who is the president of the Traditional Seafaring Society. He took me to a barbecue at the University of Guam and I met a lot of interesting people there. Most everyone there had spent some time on Pohnpei and had nothing but good things to say about it. There I met my former professor Vince Diaz's nephew Andrew. He took me from Larry and we went with his girlfriend to his comedy show (he does stand-up). After the show we went out on the town. It felt great to meet new people and people my own age. Andrew and I are going to hang out again soon.

Today I spent time at the Traditional Seafaring Society's utt (canoe house). I will go into further detail about this when I have more time. Just know that I am going out on their canoe Quest on Monday with Master Navigator Manny Sikau.

Sorry this is so brief. My next update will be in thorough detail and hopefully tonight or tomorrow. Thanks for reading. Justin

Picture: Rio, me, Andrew, Asia (Andrew's girlfriend).

Last days in Hawai'i

Aloha all. Well it is my last night here in Waianae and my last night in Hawai’i. I will miss my grandparents and O’ahu, but I think I am ready for the next leg of my trip. First I would like to say mahalo to my grandparents for the hospitality. The company, food, and time spent with you were amazing. Hopefully I will see you both on my way back through to the mainland.

Now let me tell you about my last few days here. On Sunday Josh and I went on a hike around the westernmost point on O’ahu. It was more of a walk because there was no elevation gain, but it was a scenic walk. The whole walk is on the edge of the ocean on an old army road from WWII and offered some great views. I must say that there was a decent amount of trash in the rocks below – either washed up debris or just trash from hikers and fishers. I really wish people would have respect enough to keep such a beautiful place pristine, but some people are lazy or just plain ignorant. There was even a truck down in the rocks that was probably stolen and abandoned there to rust. The earth is a beautiful place and it doesn’t take much to keep it that way. Anyways, Josh and I reached the westernmost point which is now a bird sanctuary. We didn’t see many birds though – although there were a few albatross. There was also a fallen lookout from WWII which wasn’t much to see but it reminded me off the historical significance of Hawai’i.

After the hike my grandparents had a little lunch/dinner (dunch?) party. They invited their Chinese friends Kevin and his wife, Theresa, and their neighbors Min & Svetlana. The dunch was great, and as usual, there was tons of food. I ate shrimp, fish, ribs, chicken, sushi, cabbage, mushrooms, and veggies, of course. It was great food and all of their friends are great. I had a wonderful time.

On Monday Josh and I hiked to Kaala – the highest point on O’ahu. The hike was extremely tough. The elevation gain was about 3,600 hundred feet and the climbing was relentless. It was also raining which made the hike more difficult and scarier. There were points on the hike where the path was only about a foot and a half wide and then just drop-offs on either side. With rain obviously comes clouds and we were hiking in the thick of them (a.k.a. we had no views). Another frightening part of the climb was scaling the vertical rocks and the near-vertical mud paths high in the mountain. The ropes, car cables, and garden hoses offered a little help and security, but we had to be very careful. It felt good to get to the top, but we couldn’t see anything. The trail ends at an army satellite tracking center, but again there was nothing to see. On the way down it cleared a little, so I was to get a few good pictures. Overall the hike was a little miserable because there was no view and we were soaking wet from the rain. My favorite part of the hike was through a citrus forest. There was citrus fruit all over the ground and the smell was delicious. From start to finish the hike took 5 hours.

Today Josh and I went to the beach all day. The weather was perfect – 88 degrees and partly cloudy. The water was warm and there were actually a few tourist girls at the local beach. Tonight all of us went to my grandma’s friend house for a great dinner and played a few last games of mahjong.

So my time in Hawai’i is over for now, but now on to more new experiences. I leave for Guam tomorrow morning. Here is a map of Guam for those of you who don’t know where Guam is. I will be staying in Santa Rita. I will be updating my blog regularly so keep checking for updates. I won’t have use of my cell phone, but email me please. I will miss you all. One last mahalo for reading and one big aloha to my family, friends, or anyone reading. Love Justin

Food

Aloha everyone. Once again there is not much to report on. Josh and I have been relaxing. The non-stop, always-on-the-go pace from the first half of our time here has finally taken its toll; we are exhausted. But we also realize that our time here is running out, so we are really going to make an effort to enjoy our last five or six days here. It is not often one finds themselves in a tropical paradise such as Hawai’i, so it would be moronic for us to just sit around the house.

Our active ways has taken its toll on me in another way as well: my health. I have lost around 13 pounds since I have been here. It feels great. It may seem like a lot, but I was the heaviest I’ve ever been prior to this trip (thanks to my pizza-, beer-, and fun-filled senior year), so the shed weight was more than needed. This loss is obviously the result of more activity (through hiking, swimming, running, etc.) and less of being a couch potato (through Planet Earth, FIFA Soccer 2007, and the television in general).

It is also a result of eating healthier. My grandparents don’t really eat anything unhealthy, so I have been fed well. In fact, I’m not sure if I’ve ever consistently eaten this many vegetables in my life. I have eaten virtually no beef, virtually no fried food, and have consumed virtually no alcohol, and my body is reaping the benefits.

While on the topic of food – and because of a lack of other things to talk about – I’ll talk about some of my food experiences. More specifically I will talk about fish. As can be imagined of any place on the ocean, fish is a significant part of the diet here. Before my Pacific travel, there were only a few types of fish I had tried (let alone liked). I am a huge salmon and tuna fan, but I also enjoy rainbow trout and tilapia, but that was about the extent of my fish diet. Now that I am in Hawai’i, I eat fish more than any other kind of meat. I went out to dinner with my grandparents and their friends at a local Chinese restaurant where we at a ton of sea food. I tried mussels, lobster, duck and oyster, but the main dish in the procession of plates was some sort of snapper fish. The element that was different than my fish experiences in the past is that it wasn’t just the meat that was served, but instead I found the whole fish lying cooked and not scaled on the plate. This was hard to get used to because when you just eat tuna from a can or just the meat of a salmon it is just simply meat, but when the fish comes prepared as it was this night you are no longer detached from the thought that the fish was once a living breathing animal – the fish becomes a real thing. I am not claiming to be a vegetarian or that eating fish is wrong – I am just saying it makes the dining experience mentally different.

Eating raw fish is another dining experience that is different. I am not talking about the small amount of fish that comes in sushi (and I love sushi), but I am talking about raw cuts of meat. The first time we went out to eat we went to a sushi bar in Honolulu with one of my aunt’s friends who is a sushi cook. The first thing that brought out was sashimi – a variety of raw fish. Most raw fish is a bit firm and chewy. It is obviously cold and the texture takes some getting used to at first – I am really not sure how to describe it. I really liked raw salmon, king crab, and hamachi. I can’t say I am a huge fan of raw fish yet, but I hope I acquire a taste for it because I have a feeling it will continue to be a regular part of my diet during the rest of my travels in the Pacific. At the very least I would recommend sampling it. As is the case with all foods, the taste will differ from restaurant to restaurant and fish to fish, but give it a shot. How do you know you don’t like it if you don’t at least try it?

That about wraps it up for now. Josh and I are going hiking tomorrow and then hopefully to a new beach. HAPPY BIRTHDAY MOM. I LOVE YOU. Mahalo for reading. Aloha - Justin